Happy Haridays - Susan and I were invited by Phillip and his partner, Verena to go camping with them as a celebration of the most holy of Christian holidays, the birth of Santa Claus, but I suspect the real reason was to boycott the whole $mas absurdity and get away from it all. Cod fishing on Christmas seemed like the perfect solution. We drove about 3 hours northeast to French Pass in the Marlborough Sound, another nail-biter of a road, the last hour on a gravel path that literally dropped off one side at least 1000 yards straight down and the other side sheer rock face or very steep meadowland with cows and sheep just ambling ON the road as if it were the most normal thing to do. 
I don't ever remember being as nervous driving on that road but coming home today was even more pants poopingly frightening as the clouds were way down low and for much of the time it was like driving in thick fog. Fortunately the destination was well worth the white knuckles and jaw clenching.We pitched our tent next to Phillip's pop-up camper under the Manuka trees and 50 ft. from the beach. After a cup of tea we decided to go match wits with the wily blue cod so we grabbed some poles, jumped in Phillip's boat and motored around a point, through some swirling whirlpools to a spot where we dropped anchor and began fishing. Within 30 minutes Phillip had 4 keepers from at least 15 he caught while Susan and I had exactly none.
Maybe it was the hat... but next time Mr. Cod won't be so lucky! Just when we thought the scenery out in the sounds could not be more astonishing a pod of 20-30 dolphins appeared and swam around and under the boat. They were almost close enough to touch and just seemed to be playing and fishing while we desperately tried to take photos when they popped up singly or in groups, almost daring us to get a good shot. Some were very large and there were some pups as well and we chased each other around for at least 30 min. until they decided to head out to sea.
Our Christmas Eve dinner was blue cod as fresh as could be, pan cooked in butter and Susan's delicious salads. Washed down with champagne and a sumptuous desert of boysenberry, raspberry and rhubarb tarts mit schlage (with whipped cream) it was a memorable affair and thoroughly enjoyed by all. Candles and a Christmas Lilly from Verena's garden set the scene and contributed to joyeaux noelle.
Christmas Day meant more fishing, so back in the boat and tried 4-5 more likely spots with no luck.
We did spot 2 seals on a large rock formation in the water just sunning and climbing about. Despite being fishless, seeing the seals was brilliant and we did manage to get some pictures. 
We also spied some penguins cavorting on some rocks along the shore so between the dolphins, seals and penguins we were starting to feel like junior Jock Coostows! Among the other interesting fauna was a creature called a Weka bird, flightless and about the size of a chicken, it had a duck shaped head but a very sharp beak. It will hop quite close to you especially if there is a tasty treat involved. Much like a raccoon they will steal and eat anything not nailed down but unlike raccoons they are quite bold and will wait only till your back is turned to carry off cookies, fish fillets, or whatever is handy.
My favorite part of Christmas day was going with Susan exploring a steep and switchbacked footpath down the cliffs to a deserted beach. The sun was shining and we were totally secluded so naturally it was off with the clothes and into the ocean for swimming. The water was crystal clear but chilly and we stayed in only a short while but skinny-dipping in the South Pacific on Christmas day has got to be the highlight of my trip. Sorry, but we have no pictures!
After another lovely cod dinner, drinks and conversation we turned in and woke to a cool and cloudy day, had tea and breakfast, struck the tent and left for home. Besides the year Susan and I snorkeled in the Bahamas on Christmas day I think this was our most memorable Xmas ever. Here are some random pictures of the spectacular French Pass.
